What I found there
I stayed from
2003 to 2006.
What kept me wasn’t a sight or a landmark. It was the pace. People there were not in a hurry, and it wasn’t because they had nothing to do. It was because they understood something I had spent my whole career failing to learn: that a life is not an emergency. That a long lunch is not time stolen from work — it is the point of the work. That you can be ambitious and unhurried at the same time, and the second one makes the first one bearable. And it took me years to see that this wasn’t a Romanian peculiarity. I found the same unhurried good sense later in a Kraków courtyard, a Bratislava café, a long Prague afternoon — a whole region that had, through a hard history, quietly decided not to mistake motion for meaning.
I made friends there, and then far beyond there — in Warsaw and Kraków, in Prague, in Bratislava, and among the people my father’s work had first introduced me to across the region. Not networking — friends. Some of those friendships are now more than twenty years old.
They have outlasted companies, cities, and a great deal of money. When I go back, I am not visiting a country. I am visiting people who knew me before any of this, and who would be exactly the same to me if none of it had happened.